Jesus’s words about the ever-present poor hover about wherever we go, although each country seems to have its own particular type of impoverished.
In Madrid, we saw them lean, their ragged clothes drifting over their hollow rib-cages, camped in low-lying creek valleys and ditches, living in makeshift box and sheet-metal ghettos invisible to the eye until the passerby almost stumbles in to them.
In Atlanta, a woman and her eight-year old son lingered at a downtown parkade’s exit, looking for some change. Dave drove them to a Burger King. On the way, he offered the child a piece of gum. Instead of chewing it, the boy gobbled it down – a sobering vision of hunger in America.
In Victoria, B.C., the poor lack the hollowed-out visage common to the poor of other countries. On Douglas Street at a poverty protest, a group of “homeless” panhandlers assured me that they had food aplenty. What they really wanted were cigarettes.
And in Paris the poor sometimes lay prostrate on the pavement only a few feet from where people lined up outside designer stores where women’s summer pumps sell for $1,500.
The most well-fed beggar we saw had a corner on the Royal Pereire Cafe near the metro entrance. You can even catch a glimpse of him on Google Maps here. (the link will not take you directly to him, but if you check the pavement in front of the cafe, you can see him – he’s obviously a fixture). Locals stopped to chat with him, and except for the upturned cap on the pavement, his calm demeanor would have been just about right had he been seated a few feet away at a cafe table.
Many beggars in Paris were women dressed in burqas. We don’t know what to make of that. We didn’t see any of the drug-induced lurching and mentally ill erratic manifestations of Victoria’s street population.
Nevertheless, in Paris’s underground, there were signs of possibly drug-related poverty: On the metro, a man appeared in one of the cars, mumbling, his head swaying rhythmically while passengers studiously looked the other way. When he turned to leave, his shoulder blades jutted in sharp profile against his beige sweater that was tucked into loose slacks, revealing his skeletal form.
Out on the broad promenade at the Champs Elysees, people were practically begging to get into the exclusive designer house stores. At Louis Vuitton, two security guards kept the line-up roped in a New York club-style. The line inched slowly along while the occasional “well-heeled” customer walked right up to the security guard and was let in without even so much as a glance at the waiting masses, much to the disgruntled expressions of those in the queue. It was a statement of class, money and power.
I made my own statement by not trying to get into the store, although I doubt that Louis and his cohorts missed me much.
Those familiar with the title of this post as coming from the New Testament, the seventh verse of the 14th chapter of the Book of Mark might know what comes after – that Jesus goes on to say we “can help them (the poor) anytime you like.” We can. We’re just not sure how.
Here are more images of Paris’s down-and-out population – and for something a little more upbeat – here’s my not-very-good vid of a Paris busker who was fabulous. His singing starts at the 39-second mark.
I saw some of the same “beggars” on the Champs Elysees, like the woman in your photo with her face down. I saw them come out of the metro in a group taking and laughing. Then they each went to their assigned spot, got down in a pose intended to manipulate your feelings. They were well fed, not dressed in shabby clothing, and manicured. They are part of a team with a “manager”. I felt no sympathy for them. They are another type of scam. I’ll save my money for someone or an organization who will use it effectively.
Wow.Interesting observation. I wish I was surprised, but I’ve reported on how panhandlers organize and form a loosely tied business association – not in the way that we understand it with fees and forms, but with maximizing their returns, cooperating, determined turf, etc.
As any winnipeger’s instanly knows the place to eat in parisis on the street. first you go to a grosery store and purchase small bottles of wine, in the drink section next to the coke and seven up but cheapper. then purchase french version of sub sandwich from street venders.
As always, I come back from a trip to learn that I should have called you first for travel/food tips. I did take your advice, by the way, to see Hawaii by city bus instead of the expensive tourist sightseeing buses – a great idea! Thanks Uncle Guy!
Was one of those shots of a beggar woman in front of Nike on the Champs Elysees? I took a similar shot when there. The line-up outside Louis Vuitton were there, too.
I’m not sure if it was in front of Nike, but it could have been – I took a lot of panhandler shots. How does someone hold a pose for so long? Doesn’t their blood congeal?